Count Vs GSM

Understanding Yarn Count

• English Count (Ne) – Indirect system (higher count = finer yarn)
• Denier / Tex – Direct system (higher value = coarser yarn)

• Coarser yarn = lower Ne / higher Tex or Denier
• Finer yarn = higher Ne / lower Tex or Denier

Effect of Yarn Count on GSM in Knit Fabrics

1. Basic Relationship

• Coarser yarn → Higher GSM
• Finer yarn → Lower GSM

• Single Jersey with 20 Ne yarn → Higher GSM
• Single Jersey with 30 Ne yarn → Lower GSM (with same stitch length)

2. Why Yarn Count Has Strong Impact in Knits

• Coarser yarn has higher mass per loop
• Each loop contributes more weight
• Fabric becomes thicker and heavier

3. Combined Effect with Stitch Length

• Yarn count
• Stitch length (loop length)

• Coarser yarn + shorter stitch length → Very high GSM
• Finer yarn + longer stitch length → Low GSM

Yarn Count and GSM (Knit)

 Effect of Knit Structure on Fabric Weight

Different knit structures significantly affect GSM:

• Single Jersey (SJ) is the lightest structure due to its single needle bed construction.
• Pique / Lacoste fabrics are heavier than SJ because of their tuck and textured structure.
• Rib fabrics are heavier due to double-bed knitting and higher yarn consumption.
• Interlock fabrics are the heaviest as they use two sets of needles forming a compact, dense structure.

Thus, for the same yarn count, Interlock > Rib > Pique > Single Jersey in terms of GSM.

 Machine Gauge Selection

Gauge selection depends on yarn fineness:

• Finer yarns (36s–40s) require higher gauges (24–28) to ensure proper loop formation and fabric smoothness.
• Coarser yarns (16s–24s) are knitted on lower gauges (16–20) to accommodate thicker yarn diameter. Correct gauge selection helps prevent fabric defects such as needle damage, uneven loops or excessive hairiness.

Production & Costing Relevance

This table is highly useful for:

• Merchandisers to select appropriate GSM for buyer requirements
• Costing teams to estimate yarn consumption
• Industrial engineers to plan machine allocation and capacity
• Production teams to choose correct gauge and machine type

For example, a 180 GSM polo fabric would typically use 26s–28s yarn on a 24G Pique machine, while a 220 GSM rib fabric would require 24s yarn on 16–18G machines.

End-Use Application

• Single Jersey (100–160 GSM): T-shirts, innerwear
• Pique/Lacoste (150–220 GSM): Polo shirts
• Rib (180–280 GSM): Neck ribs, cuffs, winter wear
• Interlock (180–300 GSM): Babywear, sweatshirts, premium tees

The table shows that as yarn count becomes finer (higher count number), the fabric GSM decreases across all knit structures. For example, 40s yarn produces lightweight Single Jersey fabrics (100–125 GSM), while 16s yarn results in heavier fabrics (210–240 GSM). This trend occurs because finer yarns have lower linear density, reducing fabric weight.

Effect of Yarn Count on GSM in Woven Fabrics

1. Basic Relationship

• Warp yarn count
• Weft yarn count
• Ends per inch (EPI)
• Picks per inch (PPI)

• Coarser yarn → Higher GSM
• Finer yarn → Lower GSM

2. Warp and Weft Count Influence

• Coarser warp yarn increases GSM due to higher yarn mass in length direction
• Coarser weft yarn increases GSM due to higher yarn mass in width direction

• Fabric with 40×40 Ne → Lower GSM
• Fabric with 20×20 Ne → Higher GSM

3. Interaction with EPI and PPI

• Finer yarns are often used with higher EPI/PPI
• Coarser yarns are used with lower EPI/PPI

• 30 Ne yarn with high EPI/PPI can give same GSM as
• 20 Ne yarn with low EPI/PPI

Effect of Yarn Count on GSM

As the warp and weft yarn count increases (coarser to finer yarn), the GSM of the fabric generally decreases. Coarser yarns such as 4s, 6s and 8s result in heavy fabrics with GSM ranging from 325 to 229, whereas finer yarns like 80s, 100s and 120s produce lightweight fabrics with GSM between 73 and 60. This happens because finer yarns have lower linear density, reducing fabric mass per unit area.

Influence of Ends and Picks per Inch

To compensate for the reduced thickness of finer yarns, ends per inch (EPI) and picks per inch (PPI) are increased. For example, fabrics made from 40s to 120s yarns show significantly higher EPI and PPI values (up to 148 ends/inch and 137 picks/inch) to maintain adequate fabric cover, strength and appearance. Higher thread density improves fabric compactness while controlling GSM.

Comparison Between Single and Ply Yarn Fabrics

The table also compares single yarn fabrics with ply yarn fabrics (2/ counts). Ply yarn fabrics generally exhibit higher GSM than single yarn fabrics of similar count, even at comparable EPI and PPI. For instance, 2/10s and 2/16s fabrics show GSM values of 289 and 229, respectively, which are higher due to the increased mass and strength contributed by doubling the yarn.

Fabric Engineering and Application Relevance

This data is useful in fabric engineering, costing and capacity planning, as it helps predict GSM during fabric design. Heavy GSM fabrics (using coarse counts and lower EPI/PPI) are suitable for denim, canvas and workwear, while fine-count, high-density fabrics are ideal for shirts, formal wear and lightweight apparel. The table demonstrates how GSM can be controlled either by adjusting yarn count or fabric construction parameters.

Conclusion

Overall, the table highlights a clear trend:

• Coarser yarn → lower EPI/PPI → higher GSM
• Finer yarn → higher EPI/PPI → lower GSM
• Ply yarn → higher GSM than single yarn

This relationship is critical for achieving target fabric weight, cost efficiency and end-use performance in woven fabric production.