If you’ve spent any time in a garment factory, you already know this—nothing runs on guesswork. Not for long, anyway.
That’s where SMV (Standard Minute Value) and the Operation Bulletin (OB) come in.
They’re not just paperwork. They quietly run the whole system in the background.
Planning. Costing. Line balancing. Delivery dates.
All tied back to these two.
Operation Bulletin (OB)
An Operation Bulletin is basically the breakdown of a garment into small, manageable steps.
But in reality, it’s more than a list.
It shows:
- Every operation (in proper sequence)
- Machine type
- SMV for each step
- Skill level needed
- Expected output
Done right, an OB prevents chaos.
Done poorly… production struggles from day one.
Because once sewing starts, it’s too late to “fix the plan.”
OPERATION BULLETIN – BASIC T‑SHIRT (Crew Neck)
This is where things are simple. Or at least, simpler.
Garment Details
- Fabric: Single Jersey
- Machine Speed: 2,000–4,000 rpm
- Target Efficiency: 60–65%
Sewing Operation Bulletin
| Op No | Operation Description | Machine Type | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Shoulder join | Overlock (4T) | 0.35 |
| 2 | Neck rib join | Overlock (4T) | 0.45 |
| 3 | Neck top stitch | Flatlock / SNLS | 0.40 |
| 4 | Sleeve attach | Overlock (4T) | 0.55 |
| 5 | Side seam close | Overlock (4T) | 0.60 |
| 6 | Sleeve hem | Coverstitch | 0.40 |
| 7 | Bottom hem | Coverstitch | 0.45 |
| Total SMV | 3.20 |
OPERATION BULLETIN – POLO SHIRT
Now things start getting slightly complicated.
Collar. Placket. More handling. More control needed.
- Target Efficiency: 55–60%
What adds time?
- Collar construction
- Placket making and attaching
- Extra topstitch steps
Sewing Operation Bulletin
| Op No | Operation Description | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Collar join & turn | SNLS | 0.75 |
| 2 | Collar edge stitch | SNLS | 0.45 |
| 3 | Placket make | SNLS + Folder | 0.90 |
| 4 | Placket attach | SNLS | 0.70 |
| 5 | Shoulder join | Overlock | 0.40 |
| 6 | Collar attach | Overlock | 0.65 |
| 7 | Sleeve attach | Overlock | 0.60 |
| 8 | Side seam close | Overlock | 0.65 |
| 9 | Sleeve hem | Coverstitch | 0.45 |
| 10 | Bottom hem | Coverstitch | 0.50 |
| Total SMV | 6.05 |
OPERATION BULLETIN – WOVEN SHIRT
(Men’s Basic Long Sleeve Shirt)
More parts. More precision. More operator dependency.
Style Assumptions
- Fabric: Woven (Poplin / Oxford)
- Sleeves: Long sleeve with cuff
- Front: Placket with buttons
- Efficiency Basis: 55–60%
Assembling / Sewing – Woven Shirt
| No | Operation | SMV | M/C Type | Operation Type | Skill |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Front placket folding & stitch | SNLS + Folder | 0.75 | SN | SN2 |
| 2 | Placket top stitch | SNLS | 0.45 | SN | SN2 |
| 3 | Front panel join (CF if applicable) | SNLS | 0.55 | SN | SN1 |
| 4 | Back yoke join | SNLS | 0.65 | SN | SN1 |
| 5 | Yoke top stitch | SNLS | 0.45 | SN | SN2 |
| 6 | Back panel attach to yoke | SNLS | 0.70 | SN | SN1 |
| 7 | Shoulder join | SNLS | 0.55 | SN | SN1 |
| 8 | Sleeve placket make | SNLS | 0.90 | SN | SN2 |
| 9 | Sleeve placket attach | SNLS | 0.60 | SN | SN2 |
| 10 | Sleeve attach | SNLS | 0.80 | SN | SN1 |
| 11 | Sleeve seam close | SNLS | 0.75 | SN | SN1 |
| 12 | Side seam close | SNLS | 0.90 | SN | SN1 |
| 13 | Cuff make | SNLS | 1.05 | SN | SN2 |
| 14 | Cuff attach | SNLS | 0.85 | SN | SN2 |
| 15 | Collar join | SNLS | 0.80 | SN | SN2 |
| 16 | Collar edge stitch | SNLS | 0.55 | SN | SN2 |
| 17 | Collar attach to neck | SNLS | 0.90 | SN | SN2 |
| 18 | Collar stand top stitch | SNLS | 0.60 | SN | SN2 |
| 19 | Bottom hemming | SNLS | 0.75 | SN | SN1 |
| 20 | Buttonhole ×8 | BNHS | 1.35 | BH | SN4 |
| 21 | Button attach ×8 | BN | 0.95 | BA | SN3 |
| 22 | Thread trimming | Hand | 0.40 | TR | TR1 |
| 23 | Light check | LC | 0.65 | LC | LC |
| 24 | Final ironing | Iron | 1.90 | IRN | IRN |
| 25 | Packing | Pack | 2.10 | HFC | HFC |
TOTAL WOVEN SHIRT SMV
Total = 18.05 SMV
OPERATION BULLETIN – DENIM PANT (5 Pocket)
Assumptions (Industry Standard)
- Fabric: 10.5–12 oz denim
- Line Efficiency Target: 50–55%
- Machine speed: 2,800–3,200 rpm
- Sewing + critical attach only (no washing)
Front Part Operations
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Coin pocket hemming | SNLS | 0.22 |
| 2 | Attach coin pocket to facing | SNLS | 0.30 |
| 3 | Front pocket facing join | Overlock | 0.35 |
| 4 | Front pocket bag attach | SNLS | 0.45 |
| 5 | Front pocket topstitch | SNLS (Guide) | 0.40 |
| 6 | Front pocket bartack | Bartack | 0.15 |
Sub‑Total (Front) → 1.87 SMV
Fly Piece Operations
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7 | Fly shield overlock | Overlock | 0.20 |
| 8 | Fly piece attach | SNLS | 0.45 |
| 9 | Front rise close (fly join) | SNLS | 0.70 |
| 10 | Fly topstitch (J stitch) | SNLS | 0.55 |
| 11 | Fly bartack | Bartack | 0.18 |
Sub‑Total (Fly) → 2.08 SMV
Back Part Operations
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12 | Back yoke join | SNLS | 0.55 |
| 13 | Yoke topstitch | SNLS (Guide) | 0.45 |
| 14 | Back pocket hem | SNLS | 0.30 |
| 15 | Back pocket attach (auto/template) | Pocket Setter / SNLS | 0.75 |
| 16 | Back pocket bartack | Bartack | 0.25 |
Sub‑Total (Back) → 2.30 SMV
Leg Assembly Operations
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 17 | Inseam join | Chain Stitch | 0.85 |
| 18 | Inseam topstitch | SNLS | 0.70 |
| 19 | Outseam join | Chain Stitch | 0.95 |
| 20 | Outseam topstitch | SNLS | 0.80 |
| 21 | Crotch join | Chain Stitch | 0.90 |
Sub‑Total (Assembly) → 4.20 SMV
Waistband & Finish Operations
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 22 | Belt loop make (auto) | Belt Loop Maker | 0.45 |
| 23 | Belt loop attach | SNLS | 0.65 |
| 24 | Waistband attach | SNLS | 1.05 |
| 25 | Waistband close & topstitch | SNLS | 0.85 |
| 26 | Buttonhole | Buttonhole | 0.25 |
| 27 | Button attach | Button Attach | 0.20 |
| 28 | Bottom hemming | Chain Stitch | 0.50 |
| 29 | Final bartack (stress points) | Bartack | 0.30 |
Sub‑Total (Finish) → 4.25 SMV
TOTAL DENIM PANT SMV
1.87 + 2.08 + 2.30 + 4.20 + 4.25 = 14.70 SMV
OPERATION BULLETIN – BRA (Medium Support)
Delicate work. Small pieces. Elastic control matters a lot.
- Cup assembly
- Elastic attachment
- Strap + hook
Sewing Operation Bulletin
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cup assembly | Zigzag | 0.90 |
| 2 | Cup join | Zigzag | 0.80 |
| 3 | Elastic attach (under bust) | Zigzag | 0.70 |
| 4 | Strap attach | SNLS | 0.45 |
| 5 | Hook & eye attach | Zigzag | 0.60 |
| Total SMV | 3.45 |
OPERATION BULLETIN – UNDERWEAR (Brief)
Pure volume product.
- Join panels
- Attach gusset
- Add elastics
| Op No | Operation | Machine | SMV |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Front & back join | Overlock | 0.35 |
| 2 | Gusset attach | Overlock | 0.40 |
| 3 | Waist elastic attach | Coverstitch | 0.55 |
| 4 | Leg elastic attach | Coverstitch | 0.60 |
| Total SMV | 1.90 |
OPERATION BULLETIN – SWEATER (Crew Neck, Flat Knit)
This one is interesting. Because it’s not just sewing.
You’ve got:
- Knitting
- Linking
- Assembly
Knitting stage varies a lot
Depending on machine system:
- 1 system → 62.80 SMV
- 2 system → 41.25 SMV
Huge difference.
Then assembly adds another:
Knitting Body
| No | Operation | 1 System | 2 System | 3 System | M/C Type | Operation Type | Skill Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Knit Front Panel (Auto) | 18.50 | 12.20 | 9.45 | Flat Knit (7GG Auto) | KN | HK2 |
| 2 | Knit Back Panel (Auto) | 18.10 | 11.90 | 9.06 | Flat Knit (7GG Auto) | KN | HK2 |
| 3 | Knit Sleeve Panel ×2 (Auto) | 17.80 | 11.60 | 10.86 | Flat Knit (7GG Auto) | KN | HK2 |
Knitting Body Sub‑Total
- 1 System SMV: 54.40
- 2 System SMV: 35.70
- 3 System SMV: 29.37
Knitting Components
| No | Operation | 1 System | 2 System | 3 System | M/C Type | Operation Type | Skill Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | Knit Neck Rib | 2.20 | 1.45 | 0.00 | Flat Knit | KN | HK1 |
| 5 | Knit Bottom Rib | 2.80 | 1.90 | 0.00 | Flat Knit | KN | HK1 |
| 6 | Knit Sleeve Cuff ×2 | 3.40 | 2.20 | 0.00 | Flat Knit | KN | HK1 |
Knitting Components Sub‑Total
- 1 System SMV: 8.40
- 2 System SMV: 5.55
Assembling / Linking & Sewing
| No | Operation | SMV | M/C Type | Operation Type | Skill Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7 | Panel inspection & trimming | 0.90 | Hand | TR | TR1 |
| 8 | Shoulder linking | 1.20 | Linking Machine | LK | LK2 |
| 9 | Shoulder tape attach | 0.45 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 10 | Sleeve attach to body ×2 | 1.80 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 11 | Side seam & underarm join | 2.00 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 12 | Neck rib join | 1.10 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 13 | Neck rib attach to body | 1.30 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 14 | Neck securing stitch | 0.45 | SNLS | SN | SN2 |
| 15 | Bottom rib join | 1.10 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 16 | Bottom rib attach | 1.25 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 17 | Sleeve cuff join ×2 | 1.40 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 18 | Sleeve cuff attach ×2 | 1.60 | Linking | LK | LK2 |
| 19 | Yarn tail trimming | 0.35 | Hand | TR | TR1 |
| 20 | Full garment pressing | 1.20 | Steam Iron | IRN | IRN |
| 21 | Measurement check | 0.45 | Hand | QC | QC1 |
| 22 | Final inspection | 0.40 | Hand | QC | QC1 |
| 23 | Packing | 0.75 | Pack Table | PK | PK |
Assembling Sub‑Total
- Assembly SMV: 21.15
TOTAL SMV SUMMARY
| Section | 1 System SMV | 2 System SMV |
|---|---|---|
| Knitting Body | 54.40 | 35.70 |
| Knitting Components | 8.40 | 5.55 |
| Total Knitting SMV | 62.80 | 41.25 |
| Assembly SMV | 21.15 | 21.15 |
| Total SMV | 83.95 | 62.4 |
What all this actually means
On paper, these are just numbers.
3.20. 6.05. 18.05.
But on the floor?
They decide:
- How many operators you need
- How long the line runs
- Whether you hit delivery
- Whether you make profit… or not
And small errors multiply fast.
A 0.2 SMV mistake per piece?
Across 10,000 pieces—it becomes visible.
Very visible.
