What Does "Onboarding" Mean?
In the garment business, "onboarding" means the full process a buyer uses to check and accept a factory as its approved supplier. It's not just paperwork. The buyer checks the factory's rules and safety (compliance), product quality, machines and skills (technical ability) and price (commercial terms) before agreeing to work with it long-term.
Onboarding can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on the buyer, the factory's readiness and how many gaps need to be fixed along the way. A large brand with strict rules, like H&M or Gap, may take longer because of deeper checks. A smaller buyer might move faster if the factory already has clean records.
It also helps to understand who is usually involved on both sides:
- On the buyer's side: a sourcing manager or merchandiser (who talks about product and price), a compliance or ethical sourcing team (who checks rules and safety) and sometimes a technical or quality team (who checks samples and production methods).
- On the factory's side: the owner or managing director, a merchandiser (who handles buyer communication and costing), a compliance officer (who prepares documents and manages audits) and production and quality staff (who prepare the factory floor for visits).
Knowing these roles matters because each step of onboarding usually involves a different person from each side and mixing them up often causes delays.
The Onboarding Process, Step by Step
Step 1: First Contact Either side can start — the buyer or the factory. Sometimes a factory reaches out directly through trade fairs, LinkedIn or an agent. Other times, a buyer's sourcing team finds a factory through referrals, existing supplier networks or online supplier databases. The factory shares its company profile, what it can make, how much it can make and its past work history. A short, clear and honest profile works far better than an exaggerated one, since any false claim usually gets caught during the audit stage later.
Step 2: Sharing Documents The buyer asks for key papers, such as:
- Trade license
- Factory license
- Fire license
- Environment clearance certificate
- Compliance certificates
- Company profile
- Production capacity (how much the factory can make)
- Machine list
- Bank reference or financial statement (sometimes)
- Organization chart and worker count
- Other needed papers depending on the buyer
This step feels simple, but it's often where delays begin. Factories that keep all these papers updated and ready in one folder move through this stage in days rather than weeks.
Step 3: First Check (Desktop Review) The buyer looks at all the papers, the factory's money situation, its compliance record and how much it can produce. At this point, no one visits the factory yet — everything is judged from paper. If something looks incomplete, unclear or inconsistent, the buyer usually asks follow-up questions before agreeing to the next step. A factory that answers quickly and clearly builds early trust.
Step 4: Factory Visit and Check (Audit) The buyer or an outside audit team hired by the buyer, visits the factory in person. They check worker rights, safety, machines, quality, security and health at the factory. This is usually the most important step in the whole onboarding process, because it's where the buyer's Minimum Requirements (MR) are actually tested against real conditions on the ground, not just paperwork. Auditors often interview workers privately, walk through the full production floor, check fire exits and machine guards and review real wage and attendance records — not just the copies kept for show.
Step 5: Fixing Problems (Corrective Action Plan / CAP) If the visit finds any problems, the buyer gives the factory a list of fixes to make, called a CAP. The factory must fix each problem by a set date and show proof. A CAP is not automatically a bad sign — most factories, even experienced ones, get some findings on a first audit. What matters more is how seriously and honestly the factory responds. Common CAP items include missing fire drill records, incomplete first-aid kits, unclear wage calculation or gaps in worker training documentation.
Step 6: Checking the Fixes (Re-verification) The buyer checks that all the fixes were done properly. Sometimes they visit again to confirm; other times they accept photo evidence, updated documents or a shorter follow-up visit, depending on how serious the earlier findings were. Some issues, like a missing structural safety certificate, need a physical re-check. Smaller paperwork issues can often be closed by email.
Step 7: Making Samples The buyer sends a "tech pack" (design details) or asks for a sample. The factory makes the sample and sends it to the buyer for approval. If the fit, build and quality are good, the process moves forward. This stage can involve several rounds — a first sample, a fit sample and sometimes a pre-production sample — before the buyer is fully satisfied.
Step 8: Price Talk (Costing and Negotiation) Once the sample is approved, both sides talk about price. The factory sends a full cost sheet — covering fabric, trims, sewing cost, washing, printing, embroidery, packing, testing, freight order size and lead time. The buyer checks the cost and may ask for a lower price. Both sides agree on a final price. This step often goes back and forth a few times before both sides feel the deal is fair.
Step 9: Final Approval Once both sides agree on price, payment terms and delivery terms, the buyer officially approves the factory as a vendor and gives it a vendor code. This vendor code becomes the factory's official identity in the buyer's records for every future order.
Step 10: Added to the Buyer's System The factory is now added to the buyer's online system (ERP). This is the point where the factory truly becomes an approved supplier. From here, the factory can usually be found and selected by different teams within the same buyer's company — for example, a different product category or a different regional office of the same brand.
Step 11: First Order (Purchase Order / PO) The buyer sends the first purchase order. The factory starts buying raw material and getting ready for full production. The first PO is often watched more closely by both sides, since it sets the tone for the relationship going forward.
Step 12: Full Production The factory starts making the full order, based on the approved sample. In-line quality checks usually happen throughout this stage, not just at the end, so problems can be caught and fixed early rather than at final inspection.
Step 13: Checking and Shipping The buyer or an outside inspector, checks the finished goods. If approved, the goods are shipped to the buyer. A failed final inspection at this late stage can be costly, which is why ongoing quality checks during production (Step 12) matter so much.
Step 14: Ongoing Check (Performance Review) Even after shipping, the buyer keeps watching how the factory performs — quality, on-time delivery, rule-following, communication and overall satisfaction. If the factory keeps doing well, it gets bigger orders and a stronger, longer relationship. Many buyers keep a simple scorecard for each supplier, tracking these points order after order.
A Simple Timeline View
Timelines vary a lot by buyer and factory readiness, but here's a general sense of how long each stage tends to take for a factory that is reasonably well prepared:
| Stage | Typical Time Needed |
|---|---|
| First contact to document sharing | 1–2 weeks |
| Desktop review | 1–3 weeks |
| Audit scheduling and visit | 2–6 weeks |
| CAP closure (if needed) | 2 weeks to a few months, depending on findings |
| Sample development and approval | 3–8 weeks |
| Costing and price agreement | 1–3 weeks |
| Vendor approval to first PO | 1–4 weeks |
A factory with clean, ready documents and no major audit findings can sometimes complete the full journey in two to three months. A factory with several serious findings may take six months to a year to close everything and start production.
In Short
A factory's real success is not just getting approved once. It's about keeping up good quality, following the rules, staying competitive on price and delivering on time — again and again. Getting the first order matters, but keeping the buyer's trust over the years is what makes a supplier truly successful.
What Each Brand Asks For (Brand-wise Minimum Requirements)
Every buyer follows roughly the same steps above, but the real test happens between Step 4 and Step 6 — the visit, the fix list and the final check. This is where "Minimum Requirements" (MR) come in. MR is the buyer's basic checklist — the lowest bar a factory must clear before any order, sample or price talk is taken seriously. If a factory fails the MR, nothing else matters, even if its price is the best in the market.
Many people think all buyers want the same thing — "get a BSCI or SEDEX report and you're done." That's not fully true. Each big brand has its own checklist, its own way of scoring and its own "must-fix-now" issues. A factory that easily passes for Primark might still fail an H&M check, simply because the two buyers care about different things or care about the same things in different amounts. So it helps to know what each major buyer actually looks for.
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Why Each Brand's MR Is Different
Three simple reasons explain why one buyer's MR looks different from another's:
- Home country rules. European buyers selling in Europe follow strict human rights and environment laws (like Germany's Supply Chain Act or new EU rules coming soon). So their MR focuses more on environment and worker rights paperwork than a buyer that mostly sells in the US.
- Which audit tool they use. Some buyers built their own check system years ago (like Gap Inc.'s Code of Vendor Conduct). Others use shared tools used across the industry, such as amfori BSCI, Sedex SMETA, WRAP or the Higg tools run by Cascale. If a factory already has one of these shared reports, it can often reuse it for more than one buyer — saving time and cost.
- Product risk. A brand that buys swimwear, kidswear or heavily washed/printed items (like denim) usually adds extra checks for chemicals and wastewater — checks a simple t-shirt or knitwear factory may not need.
A fourth, smaller reason also matters: company size and structure. A very large buyer with thousands of suppliers, like Walmart or Target, tends to lean on shared, risk-based systems because checking every factory in full detail every year isn't realistic. A mid-sized or design-led brand, like Marks & Spencer or Uniqlo, often keeps closer, more hands-on relationships with fewer factories, so their checks can go deeper on fewer suppliers.
What Almost Every Buyer Checks (Common Ground)
Before looking at each brand, here's what shows up in nearly every buyer's checklist. This is the base level every factory should have ready before even talking to a new buyer.
| Area | What Buyers Usually Check |
|---|---|
| Legal Papers | Trade license, factory license, fire license, environment clearance, boiler license (if needed) |
| Building & Fire Safety | Building strength certificate, fire alarms and sprinklers, exit doors, fire drills, safe wiring |
| Worker Rights | No child labor, no forced labor, workers free to join unions, legal working hours, fair pay, no discrimination |
| Health & Safety | First aid kits, safety gear, machine guards, safe chemical storage, medical room, clean canteen and water |
| Environment | Wastewater treatment plant (for dyeing/washing units), waste sorting, safe chemical use |
| Management | A way for workers to complain and be heard, HR rules in local language, worker committee, training records |
| Business Ethics | No bribery, no hidden sub-factories, honest records during checks |
| Quality Setup | Sample room, quality checks during and after sewing, a lab (or access to one) for fabric testing |
Almost every big brand's MR builds on this same base. The real differences are in how strict each point is checked and which shared audit report they accept.
What Each Major Brand Looks For
The table below shows the general system used by major brands sourcing from Bangladesh and nearby countries, based on what each brand has published publicly. Exact scores and pass/fail numbers are kept private and shared directly with suppliers, so always check the exact details with the buyer's own compliance team — don't rely only on secondhand numbers.
| Buyer / Brand | Main System They Use | What They Focus On Most | How Often They Re-check |
|---|---|---|---|
| H&M Group | "Sustainability Commitment," checked through SIPP, using Higg FEM & FSLM tools | No order starts until an on-site check confirms the MR is met; strong focus on fair pay, worker voice and safe chemical use | Yearly self-check, plus outside checks now and then |
| Inditex (Zara group) | Their own Code of Conduct | Tracking raw materials back to the source, safe chemical rules, zero tolerance for hidden sub-factories | Regular planned and surprise visits |
| Gap Inc. | Code of Vendor Conduct (COVC) | Full legal compliance, allowing surprise visits any time, strong worker rights rules, plus a women's empowerment program (P.A.C.E.) | Ongoing checks, plus regular re-checks |
| Walmart | "Standards for Suppliers," risk-based checks (accepts SMETA/Sedex reports) | Supply chain security papers, proof against forced labor, more checks for riskier countries or factories | Based on risk — riskier factories checked more often |
| Target | Target Supplier Standards, linked to SLCP (a shared data system) | Standard worker/safety checks, plus product safety and import paperwork | Regular, based on risk |
| Primark | Primark's ethical trade rules, mostly through SEDEX/SMETA checks | Strong focus on fair pay, working hours and worker complaint systems; prefers helping factories improve over failing them outright | Planned checks plus surprise visits |
| C&A | amfori BSCI Code of Conduct | The standard 13-point BSCI list — worker rights, safety, environment, ethics — with an A–E grade | Every 1–2 years, based on the grade |
| PVH Corp (Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger) | PVH's own Code, plus Higg FEM for environment scoring | Chemical use, wastewater and energy use, on top of normal worker checks | Ongoing, linked to how many orders they give |
| VF Corporation (The North Face, Timberland, etc.) | Responsible Sourcing Principles | Deep checks on human rights, tracking suppliers beyond just the main factory, strong worker complaint systems | Regular, based on risk |
| Marks & Spencer | Global Sourcing Principles (part of their "Plan A" program) | Fair pay growth over time, lowering environmental impact, factory improvement plans instead of simple pass/fail | Planned checks with ongoing improvement reviews |
| Fast Retailing (Uniqlo) | Code of Conduct for Production Partners | Legal compliance, working hour limits, strict rules on hidden sub-factories | Regular planned checks |
| Decathlon | Mix of BSCI/SMETA plus their own scorecards | Extra checks based on product type, on top of standard worker/safety checks | Regular, depends on the product type |
Other Buyers Worth Knowing
Beyond the major names above, many other well-known buyers source garments from Bangladesh and nearby countries and also run their own MR systems, most of them built around the same shared industry tools:
| Buyer / Brand | Main System They Use | Notes for Factories |
|---|---|---|
| Kohl's | Own supplier code of conduct, plus third-party social audits | Places strong weight on consistent quality and delivery reliability alongside standard compliance |
| JCPenney | Own vendor standards, accepts shared audit reports | Similar base requirements to other US department store buyers |
| Costco | Own supplier code of conduct, risk-based auditing | Known for close attention to product safety and testing, on top of standard compliance |
| Tesco | amfori BSCI-aligned | Strong focus on worker wages and working hours |
| ASDA (George) | amfori BSCI-aligned, part of the same group standards used by other UK retailers | Similar to other UK grocery-linked clothing brands |
| Aldi | amfori BSCI-aligned | Places emphasis on supply chain transparency and sub-supplier disclosure |
| Lidl | amfori BSCI-aligned | Similar focus to Aldi, with regular re-audits |
| Carrefour | amfori BSCI-aligned | Common across French retail groups sourcing garments |
| Kiabi | amfori BSCI-aligned, plus their own technical standards | Adds specific technical and chemical testing requirements for children's wear |
| Next | Own code of practice, accepts shared audit formats | Known for detailed technical and quality specifications alongside compliance checks |
These buyers generally accept the same shared audit formats mentioned earlier (BSCI, SMETA, WRAP, Higg), which is good news for factories — a well-maintained compliance file built for one of these buyers usually covers most of what the others ask for too.
How to Read These Tables
A few simple tips for factory teams using this kind of comparison:
- Shared reports save time. If a factory already has a valid SMETA report, it can often be shared with Walmart, Primark, C&A and other buyers who accept the same type of report — instead of doing a new check for each buyer.
- Higg FEM/FSLM is becoming common. Brands like H&M and PVH now often ask for Higg scores instead of a fully separate environment check, since these are checked by trusted outside groups under Cascale.
- Brands with their own rules (Gap, Inditex, Uniqlo) still expect open access. These brands may show up unannounced. A factory that only prepares for planned visits will struggle here.
- Risk-based brands (Walmart, Target, VF) check more in riskier areas. Factories in higher-risk countries or with past problems, get checked more often. A clean record over time usually means fewer checks.
- Some brands (Primark, M&S) prefer to help you improve rather than fail you fast. They're more willing to work through a fix list with the factory, as long as real progress is shown.
- European grocery-linked clothing brands (Aldi, Lidl, Tesco, Carrefour) mostly lean on BSCI. A factory already BSCI-graded well can move faster with this group of buyers.
Papers a Factory Should Always Keep Ready
No matter which buyer is checking, keeping these ready and up to date saves a lot of time:
- Trade license, factory license, fire license, environment clearance — all valid, with at least 6 months left before expiry
- Building strength certificate from a proper engineering firm
- Staff structure chart, worker count and machine list with output per line
- Wage records and attendance/overtime records for the last 6–12 months
- Wastewater test reports (for wet processing units) and a list of chemicals used, with safety data sheets
- Any existing outside audit reports — SMETA, BSCI, WRAP, Higg FEM/FSLM or SLCP self-check
- Worker complaint system policy and proof of an active worker committee
- Sample-making and quality-check steps written down (SOPs)
- Business license and papers showing any sub-factories used
- A simple organized "compliance folder" (physical or digital) that any auditor can review quickly
Keeping a digital copy of every document, clearly labeled and dated, is one of the simplest things a factory can do to speed up almost every stage of onboarding.
Common Mistakes Factories Make
- Thinking one buyer's approval means all buyers will approve. Passing H&M's check doesn't mean Inditex or Gap will approve the same factory — each one wants its own set of papers, even if the basic rules are similar.
- Hiding sub-factories. Almost every big brand treats a hidden sub-factory as a serious problem — sometimes leading to instant rejection instead of just a fix list.
- Fixing the surface, not the real problem. Check teams are trained to spot quick, fake fixes (like a fire extinguisher added right before a re-check) versus real, lasting changes like updated rules and training records.
- Letting licenses expire. A factory that passed its first check but let its fire license or wastewater test expire a year later can lose its approved status — even without any new problem.
- Spending too little time on paperwork. Many factories focus mostly on machines and safety gear, but forget how much of the score depends on paperwork being complete and consistent — wage records, training logs and complaint records.
- Rushing the sample stage. Sending a rushed or careless sample just to "move fast" often backfires, since it can damage the buyer's first impression of the factory's quality standards.
- Underpricing just to win the first order. Quoting an unrealistically low price to win the first PO can create pressure later, leading to corner-cutting on quality or compliance — which usually costs the relationship in the long run.
- Poor communication during CAP. Going quiet after receiving a CAP or missing the agreed deadline without explanation, often damages trust more than the original finding itself.
How MR Fits Into the Full Process
Going back to the 14 steps from Part One — MR isn't a separate thing, it's built right into Steps 3 to 6. The first check (Step 3) is mostly the buyer seeing if the paperwork looks strong enough to pass MR at all. The visit (Step 4) is the real MR check. The fix list (Step 5) is the factory's chance to close any gaps for that specific buyer's MR. And the final check (Step 6) confirms the gaps are truly fixed, not just hidden for the visit.
Factories that treat MR readiness as an everyday habit — not a last-minute rush before each new buyer visit — usually move through Steps 3 to 6 much faster. Most of the paperwork and physical readiness carries over from one buyer to the next. As more buyers now share audit data through shared systems like SLCP, staying always ready is becoming a real advantage, not just a box to tick.
A Note for Factories in Bangladesh
Bangladesh remains one of the largest garment sourcing bases in the world and most major global buyers already have long experience working with factories here. That history brings some extra points worth knowing:
- Fire and building safety carry extra weight. After past accidents in the industry, most international buyers now pay very close attention to structural safety, fire systems and electrical safety in Bangladesh specifically. Programs like the RMG Sustainability Council (RSC) — which grew out of earlier fire and building safety initiatives — are often referenced or required by buyers sourcing from the country.
- Local wage law changes affect MR checks. Bangladesh's minimum wage board updates wages for the garment sector periodically. Buyers expect factories to update pay records immediately after any legal change, not months later.
- Many buyers accept a shared local audit base. Because so many international brands source from the same clusters of factories around Dhaka, Chattogram and Gazipur, tools like SLCP and Higg are especially useful here — they reduce the number of separate audits a single factory has to host each year.
- Compliance offices are often based locally. Many major buyers keep a dedicated sourcing or compliance office inside Bangladesh, which can make communication faster than dealing with a head office overseas. Building a good working relationship with this local office often smooths out many of the fourteen steps described earlier.
- Government and buyer requirements can overlap, not just add up. A factory that follows Bangladesh's own labor law, building code and fire safety rules closely is usually already close to meeting a large share of most buyers' MR — the gap is often smaller than factories expect, especially for well-run, established units.
Quick FAQ
Does passing one buyer's audit help with the next buyer? Yes, partly. A shared report like SMETA or BSCI can often be reused across several buyers who accept the same format. But some buyers, especially those with their own proprietary code (Gap, Inditex, Uniqlo), will still run their own separate check.
What happens if a factory fails the first audit? Most factories don't fail completely — they receive a CAP (a fix list) instead. As long as the factory closes the gaps within the agreed time and shows real proof, the relationship usually moves forward normally.
How long does the whole onboarding process take? It depends heavily on the buyer and the factory's starting condition, but a reasonably prepared factory can often complete the full journey — from first contact to first shipment — in about two to six months.
Do small or new factories have a real chance with big brands? Yes, though it often takes longer. Many big brands are open to newer factories if the basic legal, safety and worker-rights requirements are already solid and the factory shows a genuine, honest effort to improve during the CAP stage.
Is MR the same as a "certification"? Not exactly. MR is the buyer's own checklist, judged through an audit. A certification (like WRAP or a Higg-verified score) is often used as evidence to help meet MR, but each buyer still applies its own judgment on top of it.
A Short Glossary
- MR (Minimum Requirements): The lowest set of standards a factory must meet before a buyer will work with it.
- CAP (Corrective Action Plan): A list of problems a factory must fix, with deadlines, after an audit.
- BSCI: A shared, industry-wide social compliance system run by amfori, used by many European buyers.
- SMETA: A common audit format used through Sedex, covering labor standards, health and safety, environment and business ethics.
- WRAP: An independent certification program focused on responsible manufacturing standards, common among US buyers.
- Higg FEM / FSLM: Environmental and social self-assessment tools run through Cascale, increasingly used by major brands.
- SLCP: A shared data system that lets factories complete one social and labor assessment and share the results with multiple buyers.
- ERP: The buyer's internal software system where approved suppliers are recorded and managed.
- Tech Pack: A detailed design document a buyer sends to a factory, describing exactly how a garment should be made.
- Vendor Code: A unique ID number a buyer gives to an approved factory, used to track all future orders.
Final Checklist Before Approaching a New Buyer
- All legal licenses are valid and not close to expiry
- Fire and building safety systems are working and documented
- Wage and attendance records are accurate and complete for the past year
- A functioning worker grievance system is in place
- At least one recognized third-party audit report is available (BSCI, SMETA, WRAP or similar)
- Machine list and production capacity figures are accurate and realistic
- Sample room and quality control process are ready to be shown
- Company profile and cost sheet template are prepared in advance
- A clear person is assigned to manage buyer communication and compliance follow-up
In Short
Buyer onboarding is, at its core, about building trust — and Minimum Requirements are how that trust gets measured in papers and numbers, not just promises. Knowing that H&M, Walmart, Primark, Gap, Inditex and others each care about slightly different things doesn't mean a factory needs a totally separate system for every buyer. It means building one strong internal system that covers the basics well, then adding whatever extra paper or report a specific buyer asks for. A factory that stays ready all year, keeps its licenses current and treats every fix list as a real fix — not just a show — is the one that keeps getting repeat orders. Over time, that's the factory new buyers start coming to, instead of the other way around.
